Kentucky
Kentucky,
like many states settled in America's early frontier period,
presented many challenges for the first pioneers. These
challenges eventually translated into a unique cuisine reflecting
the collective heritage of folks hailing from several regions of the
globe. The following ecclectic buffet illustrates the hard
work and love for life of the folks who call Kentucky home.
About
early Kentucky's culinary heritage
"The Kentucky
region formed the western part of the wilderness granted to Virginia
under the royal charter of 1609. By 1729 hunters began to visit the
thick forests of what is now eastern Kentucky. These early explorers
were known as "long hunters," either because they stayed away months
at a time or because of the long rifles they carried...When the
Cumberland Gap, a pass through the Appalachian mountains, was
discovered in 1750, it opened the area of Kentucky for exploration
and settlement. Daniel Boone passed through the Gap in 1769 and
spent almost two years exploring Kentucky.
He blazed
what is now called the Wilderness Road and opened the Kentucky
frontier of settlement... One of the earliest dishes of Kentucky was
a hunter's stew. It was made without a recipe and consisted of
whatever choice pieces of meat from freshly killed game were
available. The meat--deer, elk, bear, or wild turkey--was
cooked in an open kettle over a fire. Dried sage and pepper were
added to give the stew an English flavor. At the end of a long hunt,
the supply of cornmeal was usually exhausted, and the hunters
realised solely on meat for subsistance. Since the breast of the
wild turkey had a bland taste and grainy texture, it became the
hunter's bread. Roasted kidney or stewed bear's liver was served on
the "bread" and provided a contrast of flavors as well as textures.
Colonists from Pennsylvania, Virginia, Maryland, North Carolina and
eastern Tennessee--mostly of English, Scotch-Irish, or German
extraction--established the first white settlements in Kentucky in
1774.
They brought
basic supplies such as cornmeal, salt, smoked ham and bacon, and
hard-to-get wheat flour. As soon as land was cleared, the
settlers planted corn, which provided food for themselves and their
livestock. They also used corn to make distilled whiskey...
Early Kentucky Foods. Wheat did not grow well in the Kentucky soil,
and corn proved to be a hardier crop. The little bit of wheat
flour the settlers could obtain, at about four times the price of
cornmeal, was saved for special uses, such as biscuits for company,
a pie crust, or gingerbread. Cornmeal was used for most breads and
for mush... The settlers planted some of the vegetables to which
they had become accustomed in their previous eastern homes.
These
included Irish and sweet potatoes, carrots, green beans, and okra.
Green beans simmered all day with bacon was a favorite dish. By
serving time the beans had almost turned to mush, but the smoky
flavor of the bacon was delicious. Sometimes cut-up Irish potatoes,
okra, and chunks of corn were added to the bean dish, making it a
vegetable stew. Almost as soon as the first green sprouts
appeared above the ground in the spring, the women gathered wild
greens while the men plowed the fields for planting. The greens were
cooked with smoked ham hocks, hog jowl, bacon, or "pot likker"
(juice that had been saved from greens previously cooked with cured
or smoked meats). "A mess of greens" was a welcome treat after
having only root and dried vegetables over winter... In the
hills of Kentucky, bear was the common game and was treated similar
to pork by smoking the bear hams and bear bacon...Burgoo Stew is
probably the most famous Kentucky dish. Its recipe has been
handed down through the generations. No two burgoo stews are
alike, however, and no one really know where the name came from. Some say it is a mispronounciation of barbecue, while other say it
is a slurred word for bird stew.
In frontier
days it was a hunter's stew made from available meats or game. Most
burgoo recipes combined one kind of fowl with a red meat. They all
had a variety of vegetables, with which the most common were
tomatoes, lima beans, corn, onions, and potatoes. The stew was
slowly simmered for many hours and seasoned with peppers, curry
powder, file powder, bourbon, spices, and herbs. The type and amount
of seasonings were up to the cook."
---Taste of the States: A Food History of America, Hilde
Gabriel Lee [Howell Press:Hong Kong] 1992 (p. 72-3)
Historic recipes
- The Kentucky
Housewife, Lettice Bryan [1839]
---this cookbook was recently reprinted by Image Graphics. Your
librarian can help you get a copy. It includes two interesting
fruit (apple, peach)